Monday, 2 November 2009

Project 16 - Purple Coat

Ok, so my first coat – and I picked up McCall 5513 over the summer in one of the $3 sales (BARGAIN!) I’ve got a few smart coats and an old battered leather jacket, but I really like the current styles and this one is my favourite.

I’d already decided not to do the appliqué on the back – it’s just not my style and to do some funky contrasting stitching on the seams. I picked up some fairly cheap purple wool coating (a GORGEOUS) colour along with some red lining from Fabric Land. I was going to face it in either lighter purple or red, but when I unpacked the purple I realised I’d been sold 150cm wide when I was told it was 115cm wide so I had loads too much so I decided to self-face. I also bought a set of massive red shell buttons (costing almost as much as the fabric).

I got it all cut out this week, then after spending most of Saturday re-arranging and cleaning my sewing room I got started on Sunday morning. The bodice went together like a dream. All the easing of the shoulder seams and sleeves slipped into place so easily. I officially love working with wool!!! I did all the topstitching in sparkly red thread which is very exciting (although it does snap at the most inopportune moments). I didn’t change anything really except to topstitch most of the seams (only a select few are stitched in the design and that looked a bit random to me) and to machine the lining onto the shoulder seam rather than hem it and slipstitch it. I’m going to get some red binding for that seam to smarten it up, but it feels fine.

Dark fell (so early – since when has it become NOVEMBER?) and after dinner I got onto the skirt. Now that’s more complicated. First are the dozen or so pleats, the only section so far where the instructions are really lacking. All it says is pleat as shown in the picture. I’d never done pleats before, but with a little help from a book I got them sorted and looking rather smart.

The bottom has to be gathered to about ¼ of its original size which with the wool fabric is hard work. The instructions say to run two lines of stitching along the bottom and use those to gather, but my thread just kept snapping. I ended up unpicking that and, following a review I’d read on patternreview.com I found some thick elastic, cut it to the right size and sewed it on stretched out. Even then I had to manually “squidge” the wool as it went through the machine as it was longer than the full stretch of the elastic!!! Eventually (I must have been working on that seam for 2-3 hours – the first difficult part of the coat) I got it done and stitched to the lining and headed off exhausted to bed. I was really disappointed I couldn’t finish it yesterday (I wanted to wear it today), but I’ll do my best to get it done on Tuesday night. It looks like there’ll be a bit more gathering at the top of the skirt but I’m on instruction 54 of 63 so I’m almost there...

Tuesday, 20 October 2009

2nd Millinery Course - Week 6

In the words of Kasabian, “I’m on fiiiiiiiiiiiiiii-rrrrrrrrrrrrre” – I had a brilliant evening last night and even finished one of my hats!

Since last week, I’ve been stitching the cord made from the blue felt as neatly as I possibly can. I’ve also been playing with it – knotting it, twisting it, holding it against the hat, trying to work out what I want to do with it. My favourite was a figure of eight knot, which I steamed into place at the start of the class. I had planned to run the rest of the cord around the hat and weave it back through the knot, but when I pinned everything in place that just didn’t look right. I played around until I had found the right position, pinned it all there and started to make holes to thread the cord through.

I tried that on a scrap first – different shaped holes and how they worked with the felt stuck through them. I found that making a cross shape worked best, as long as the flaps ended up on the wrong side of the fabric. I marked my locations and off I went. It was really scary to make the first cut, but as soon as I started threading the cord through I was thrilled with the effect. I’d decided to thread in and out based on where the shape goes out and it looks (if I may say so myself) fantastic. Finally I stitched the knot and ‘tail’ in place, trimmed the tail and made the ends look funky (devil tails according to someone at work). I’m really really pleased with how it has come out and really proud of myself for doing something a little out of the ordinary for once.

















Next up, I started blocking a beret. I hadn’t expected to finish what I was doing so quickly so I ‘borrowed’ a black hood off someone and blocked it. I was really pleased with how well it went – it blocked very quickly and I didn’t have very much hassle with the rolled edge – I managed to shrink the felt into it far quicker and easier than I ever have before. I need to have a think about what I want to do to decorate this one.
















And finally, we all made up some samplers of tie-tacking wire to the felt, stitching the wire on with a blanket stitch and covering an edge with petersham. I did all the stitching in contrast colours to make it clear on the samples, but was really proud of myself that I could barely see the stitching on the petersham, even though I’d sewn white thread onto black petersham!!!

So, an incredibly successful week. Next week’s half term so there’s not class, but I intend to use the time to get all my planning, research and design work written up. And an early night on a Monday – it’s a mission getting home from Chelsea!!!

Sunday, 18 October 2009

A Tragic Loss

The greatest people are taken from us too young. Joe, you'll be missed every day.

Tuesday, 13 October 2009

Project 15 - Bumblebee - PHOTOS

Earthwatch have kindly sent me some pictures of the bumblebee in action. Please click on their link below and see what they do.

www.eathwatch.org/europe

2nd Millinery Course - Week 5

Good morning everyone!!!

Well, it's Tuesday and you know what that means - millinery course update!!!

Last night we presented our initial ideas for design inspiration for our coursework hats. Mine is the tiny boutique hotel I went to last week for a storytelling event. The atmosphere was fantastic and the plain front door hid the most beautiful and sumptuous interior decorating I've ever seen. Click here to have a look at the website.

The ideas in the group are really varied, ranging from taxidermy to exotic flowers to bubbles to pieces of ceramic art. It'll be so exciting to see how they all develop.

Then, with all the inspiration flowing around in the air we got on with our hats. The teacher showed us how to manipulate hats manually, using a plain block to get some really funky effects. I can't wait to have a try of that.

I had decided to take inspiration for this blue hat from a hat on display in the college. A cord has been made from the felt and laced through the hat to make a very sophisticated-looking decoration.

Using a wet pressing cloth, I stretched my remaining felt (cut off in a circle) into a straight line and cut a long strip of it. I started to hand stitch this into a cord. I'm going to get that finished this week so that I can get it attached next week in the class.

Man making hats makes me so HAPPY

Tuesday, 6 October 2009

2nd Millinery Course - Week 4

Good morning everybody and welcome to today's installment in the exciting world of the trainee milliner.

Well, I was in a MUCH better mood last night and had the normal fun that I have on the course the group really is the loveliest to work with - not one person who isn't fully involved, loads of chatter and everyone chatting to everyone else. It's really wonderful.







We started out in the library, researching hat designs, fashion and looking for inspiration for our projects. When that closed, we headed up to the room and got back to our felt hats. Everyone's been going at about the same speed which was great as we were all doing stuff together. I got my hat unpinned, off the block and the head band sewed in by the time we went home. I'm really happy with the shape and spent most of the long train ride home sketching ideas for decorating it. Pictures will follow when I get home.

During the evening, the teacher discussed what we'd be doing during the course, what materials we'll be working with, and said that if we produce really original designs she'll put them forwards for a couple of student competitions which is really exciting and has got me all fired up. There's a list of competition winners for a competition in felt this year and almost all of them are from this college. Plus one of them's on the BTEC course

So, my main work for this week is to think of "inspiration". The things I've picked up so far are the autumn leaves around me and (to appease my colleagues) the olympic rings. She's much more keen that we base on a painting or something like that though so we'll see where we end up...I'm keeping my camera on me at all times and my theatre trip on Wednesday may turn into a gallery instead...

Wednesday, 30 September 2009

2nd Millinery Course - Week 3

Well, the jet-lag is finally dispersing and I'm starting to feel human again. I can tell as I spent the train-ride into work this morning with my nose in my note book, oblivious to the world around me and full of ideas

I must admit, Monday did NOT go well. I was tired and grumpy and full of mistakes. Everything went wrong and I made it all worse!

Well, I'd missed the first two weeks as I was on holiday so I got all the hand-outs - three assignments of research, design and make over the length of the course. The other girls on the course are really really lovely and I feel like I've made friends already. One of them had just got engaged at the weekend which was really exciting.

The first few weeks are practical to give everyone a chance to block. Quite a few people have done it before - mainly as they did fashion or design courses at uni. I picked a beautiful block - very small and a one-piece as I'm a little behind in terms of time. I got it blocked quite quickly (in a fantastic royal blue hood) and started to work out the creases as it has a rolled bottom. That was when I got cross and attacked it with scissors, cutting off far more than I should and making life even more difficult for myself. NEVER do complex work when that tired - it's foolish - although I'm sure you all know that one!

There's some detailing on the crown, a little like the block my husband bought me for my birthday and I started to pin that in, but didn't get it complete before the end of the session.

No photos I'm afraid - I didn't remember my camera (I'm quite pleased I remembered all my blocking stuff actually) but hopefuly I'll be better next week. Think I gave a terrible first impression as I was so tired and had had an awful first day back at work, but I've got the next 6 months or so to make that better.

Now to find some "inspiration" for my designs...

Wednesday, 2 September 2009

HOLIDAY!!!

I'm off to America to walk across the Grand Canyon!!! See you in 3 1/2 weeks!

Project 15 - Bumble Bee


This was an amusing one - a scientist who wanted a fairly accurate costume so that he can teach about bees in schools by dressing up as one...

This is a bombus terrestris:

http://images.google.co.uk/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=bombus%20terrestris&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi

and this is his outfit (to be worn with full length black trousers and top and gloves, but it was far too hot for that when I was modelling it...

Sunday, 30 August 2009

Project 14 - Silk - PHOTOS





Well the wedding was fantastic and although I never quite fell in love with the dress (I think it's too much pattern and a little overpowering), I adore the hat. Here's a couple of pics for you



Monday, 17 August 2009

Project 14 - Silk - Update


The hat...first thing was to make bias binding and then stitch it to the sinamay base


Then assemble it and add a hairband. Decoration still to come...


Decorated with the silk and lining fabric with fishing wire stitched in the seams, then ruffled into gorgeous little pompoms

Sunday, 9 August 2009

Project 14 - Silk - Update

The dress is finished!!!

Bought a bias binder maker today and made some up from the silk to edge the hat. It's looking fantastic so far, although I'm hand-sewing so it's taking a while.

Saturday, 8 August 2009

Project 14 - Silk - Update

Where has time gone? When I started this there was AGES to go, and now the wedding's 2 weeks today! Going down to my in-laws next weekend which means I need to finish at least the dress this weekend. And with a social life to fit in

Well, I've got everything cut, have basted all the lining to the silk and done all the gathering - it's amazing how long all that preperation takes!!! Absolutely exhausted, but want to get it at least looking like a dress today, even if I can't get it completely finished off...

Wednesday, 5 August 2009

Project 14 - Silk - Update


okay, a slight deviation - the dress will get my attention at the weekend.

Yesterday I had a vision. It was in the shape of a hat/fascinator and it goes with the dress. So I mocked it up while no-one was looking out of a sheet of paper at work. Here's the mock-up.


then I got home and made that fingernail size mockup into something out of a cereal box that is the right size for my head (using lots of fantastic circle mathematics I thought I'd forgotten)

I was really really happy with that so I got some sinamay today and I've made up the first part of the hat. REally happy with progress so far...

Sunday, 26 July 2009

Project 14 - Silk - Update

oh my oh my oh my - some very very lovely person has sent me some marfy patterns to try before I get started on the "marfy challenge" and I've just had a little play with this dress (third image):

http://www.marfy.it/eng/activenews.asp?idcat=3453&idart=54101&azione=list&layout=

I picked it as it was the only dress and as you may have noticed, I have a teeny bit of a thing about dresses...

well I made it up (incredibly easily - I was surprised - it only took about an hour!!!) just to see how it went in scrap fabric and it's the most beautiful thing I've ever put on!

so little bit of a change in plan - looks like this is what I'm making up in the silk...it's mind blowing and with the drape of the silk it's going to be divine.

Going to rip apart this toile and maybe cut the silk today I'm so excited!!!

Wednesday, 15 July 2009

Project 14 - Silk - Update

I made up the bodice again last night but I'm still not happy with it. Tried doing French seams for the first time because all my research on silk suggested it - a lot easier than I'd expected (even though I felt I was doing things wrong by sewing on the righ side of the fabric) and very useful for lining things up.

Had a go at pinning the seam allowances to check how it looks as I'm not 100% sure about it. I had a second go at expanding it as the 'stretched apart' look of the folds isn't what I was aiming for. Gotta get it right and all...and it's a good learning experience if very frustrating. I'm finding it hard to get my teeth in with only an hour or so an evening available to do work on it.

Oh well it's best to get things right before I start on the silk...

Update: Well, that sort of worked, but I just don't like the shape of the dress now that it's my size. Think I might have a look for a different pattern...

Tuesday, 14 July 2009

Project 14 - Silk - Update

ok, so I finally got around to lengthening the pattern - a good excuse to get my pristine (because it scared me) fitting book out and have a look at what to do.

I had to add 2 inches - there's 2 pleats so I put half an inch above each and an inch below the bottom one. The pattern needed more tweaking than I expected to make the lines match up again, but I think I've done ok.

Hoping to cut that out tonight and redo the toile for the top of it. See if that fits, and if it does I can get on with the real thing (or put it off for another few weeks as I'm scared to cut the silk)

Monday, 6 July 2009

Project 14 - Silk


Well, after years of wandering into Liberty to gaze longingly at the fabric, I finally turned up during the sale and bought myself two metres of this:

I've never held such beautiful fabric and I've certainly never had any clothes made out of something so gorgeous.


As it's the first time I've ever worked with silk, and as it has such a bold pattern I want to make something very simple with it. I have this pattern (used view C for my dress for my Aunt's birthday party) and thought view D would be ideal:

I had to lengthen view C massively (3 or 4 inches in the bodice) when I made it before, and putting the toile together, view D will be the same...BUT...there's no "lengthen or shorten here" line and I'm not entirely sure how to go about it.

Saturday, 6 June 2009

Project 12 - Debbie's Skirt - Update


all finished - I had the fear that it was going to be too small as it looked tiny, but made martha up to her measurements and it looks fine.

Update: Debbie loved it - it's such a treat to be able to give things to my friends and see their smiles

Project 12 - Debbie's Skirt

Well, it's a close friend's birthday this week and we're out tonight so I'm going to make her up this skirt

http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/newlook/6569/6569.jpg

Got to the market before the stalls were even set up (I couldn't help it, I was excited) and after a walk in the rain got her these two fabrics

About 1 1/2 hours till we're due to go out, probably have an hour or two when we get home - no problem (fingers crossed)
 
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