Draping - Diana statue part 1

This is the first proper 'exercise' in the draping course and one I've really struggled to get my teeth into. The simple fact is I'm not a fan of the garment, I couldn't imagine myself wearing it (even as fancy dress) and as such I've found my drive to be lacking. I almost skipped the chapter, but I don't want to miss out on the skills this early on so I bucked up my ideas and got stuck in.

This is the statue that is being draped:

See what I mean? Lovely statue, lovely dress, really good information about the dress and dresses from this period of history in the book, completely not the sort of thing that inspires or drives me. But still, here's the book's draped version:

I mean, seriously, this woman's a genius - it maps so well. The only real difference is fabric vs stone. Maybe one day I'll be able to do this out of my head!

Here's my version (excusing the fact I'm working in the baby's room as he's still in ours):

I had some difficulties with this. Firstly my new mannequin doesn't match up to the measurements used for the blocks in the book so I had to work out how to adjust the measurements. I haven't quite got it right as my shoulder seams don't meet, but I can learn from that. Secondly, I feel like I've created a scrunchy ball of fabric where the exercise shows a sleek gown. Close up it does have the right kind of shape, but I just can't get the drapey bits to sit right, no matter how hard I try. Hopefully I'll get there with that, and when we move on to more tailored-looking, sleek items (which is my style).

There were also two massive improvements from the last exercise: firstly I blocked the fabric better and was better able to map the grain lines of the fabric. Secondly let me introduce you to my cheap amazon mannequin - she needs a name still, but I'm really impressed with what you can get for just £25. Working with a full mannequin rather than the gaps on the adjustoform really made a difference. What do you think she should be called?

New Course - Draping

I've been keen to do another course since the boys were born, but just haven't been able to make it work.

I was looking into draping courses (for which it appears I'd have commute into London. Everything locally is basic level dressmaking.)

Then I found this book: (Draping the Complete Course by Karolyn Kisel)

 

 

The reviews are amazing and with a little investment in materials I think I might be up to doing it myself. Draping appeals as I love the way shapes come together in hats and want to see how I can apply that in sewing. I've done some projects without patterns but I love doing things properly.

So, chapter 1 and the preparation. I prepared my mannequin. It's pretty obvious straight away that Martha (an adjustoform) won't cut the mustard here. I can't pin directly into her and she has bits missing down the side and centre front and back. I'm already awaiting a new friend from Amazon. 

 

Fabric preparation all made sense. I can't say I did a great job of blocking the calico as the grain wasn't straight, but I'm sure I'll improve in time. You can see how wonky it is in this photo, although it hasn't come out all that well on my phone.

 

The first exercise is to drape a basic dance tunic. The instructions and videos were really clear. Here's the book's version and mine. I struggled a bit again with the gap in centre front as i had nothing to work against. I'm pleased with the outcome though. I enjoyed manipulating the fabric.

 

I'm going to work on this every Tuesday night and plan to update after each exercise. I'm keen to see how the draping is translated into a pattern for the finished garment. 

Oh to have a hat for sale on Bond Street...

I received an invitation from Kensington & Chelsea College last week to submit a hat for selection by Fenwicks of Bond Street’s millinery buyer for sale or return at Fenwicks.

I find this really exciting as this was how I found out about the course I’ve just finished. I saw a note in Metro about the display in Fenwicks of student work, went to see it and was so impressed I applied for the course the next day. I dreamed at the time of one of my hats being there on show a in a subsequent display. Imagine if that could happen one short year later!

Now, there’s 2 problems. One is that the selection will be made on the 4th. I’m away at scout camp all weekend so that means I’ll have to deliver my hat by Friday this week! The second is which hat to sell? They suggest unusual without being quirky or weird. The sort of hat a lady can wear to Ascot or a wedding or a society event. Something that takes in current trends yet also stands out.

There’s only one piece that can meet these criteria. The coursework hat. But to be honest, the one I made may be my pride and joy, but it’s just not good enough for Fenwicks. There’s a few little glitches and imperfections that make it not quite good enough to sell.

So this weekend I started blocking a copy. But with differences. So it’s better. I’m going to have the opening at the front rather than the back so it’s more visible. And it’s going to be a little deeper and less tall to let a little more light in. I’ve stiffened the felt a lot more so it’s more structured and strong. And I’m going to support the shape all the way around with the wire so it holds better. I’m also going to do the mirrors differently, but I’m not 100% sure what I mean by that.

Well, I blocked the crown three times this weekend. I just can’t do it perfectly enough. But I think I’m mostly there now. My husband’s been amazing and said he’ll do all the shopping and cooking so I can get it done. I’m very excited but very very scared.

The last three weeks of my millinery course

I’ve had this post half-written for over a month now – really need to get it finished!!! I blame the new job, but I’m all nicely settled in now so should have more energy in the evenings to make things and tell you about them!

The last few weeks of my millinery course flew by. Firstly I finished blocking the blue flower hat. I’d forgotten to put cling film on the brim block and this taught me why. The felt stuck to the block and as I pulled it off I found it to be stained and damaged by the well-used block. It’s not too bad, and it’s on the underside of the brim so I can still finish the hat off, but it was an essential lesson to learn. I wired the brim and put the two pieces together and I fell in love. I love the huge brim and how it looks with the flower on the crown.

I also blocked a large black felt hat as a one-piece based on these Chanel adverts: (oh boy do I LOVE this Chanel collection – how I wish I had that kind of cash, or the ability to recreate some of these beautiful dresses and jackets) The shape’s pretty close – now I just need to get the brim wired and add some black satin ribbon and I’m off.

I had my tutorial. I turned up with all my research and design work, beautifully presented in a pair of stylish black folders. I’d spent what felt like forever up to my elbows in pritt stick at the weekend getting it all written up and was glowing with pride. Caroline seemed really happy with what I’d done, and especially with the printouts of my blog, showing everything I’d learnt in the course. So a really successful tutorial until the end when she asked where the finished hat was. WHAT??? But this is the DESIGN tutorial!!! I thought we had until the end of the course, the next tutorial, to do that. “Yes”, she replied. “The course ends next week!!!”

No pressure then to get the hat made from scratch. I blagged that I’d got it started (honest, gov – no-one believes you) and headed home a little early to get it started. I raided my felt stash for a hood (yes, I hadn’t even ordered the stuff for it) and stiffened it that night before bed. I spent the next couple of days blocking, eternally grateful for the practice pieces I’d done as I zipped around all the mistakes I’d made before. It took me until the Sunday night before it was finished, but I was absolutely thrilled with the results. It’s exactly like the design with the silk lining, the mirrors twinkling inside and a sense of adventure.

Caroline was really impressed in the class and suggested I found a way of entering it for competitions. WOW!

We ended the course with a group meal which was a great giggle. While we were in the restaurant, one of the waiting staff came up and asked if she could show her friend in the kitchen my hat. I was so thrilled that other people like it too. Almost happy enough to make up for the fact that there’s no more millinery course until September!!!

Wow – what an epic tale! Well, here’s the hat for your enjoyment...