Draping - Diana statue part 1

This is the first proper 'exercise' in the draping course and one I've really struggled to get my teeth into. The simple fact is I'm not a fan of the garment, I couldn't imagine myself wearing it (even as fancy dress) and as such I've found my drive to be lacking. I almost skipped the chapter, but I don't want to miss out on the skills this early on so I bucked up my ideas and got stuck in.

This is the statue that is being draped:

See what I mean? Lovely statue, lovely dress, really good information about the dress and dresses from this period of history in the book, completely not the sort of thing that inspires or drives me. But still, here's the book's draped version:

I mean, seriously, this woman's a genius - it maps so well. The only real difference is fabric vs stone. Maybe one day I'll be able to do this out of my head!

Here's my version (excusing the fact I'm working in the baby's room as he's still in ours):

I had some difficulties with this. Firstly my new mannequin doesn't match up to the measurements used for the blocks in the book so I had to work out how to adjust the measurements. I haven't quite got it right as my shoulder seams don't meet, but I can learn from that. Secondly, I feel like I've created a scrunchy ball of fabric where the exercise shows a sleek gown. Close up it does have the right kind of shape, but I just can't get the drapey bits to sit right, no matter how hard I try. Hopefully I'll get there with that, and when we move on to more tailored-looking, sleek items (which is my style).

There were also two massive improvements from the last exercise: firstly I blocked the fabric better and was better able to map the grain lines of the fabric. Secondly let me introduce you to my cheap amazon mannequin - she needs a name still, but I'm really impressed with what you can get for just £25. Working with a full mannequin rather than the gaps on the adjustoform really made a difference. What do you think she should be called?

New Course - Draping

I've been keen to do another course since the boys were born, but just haven't been able to make it work.

I was looking into draping courses (for which it appears I'd have commute into London. Everything locally is basic level dressmaking.)

Then I found this book: (Draping the Complete Course by Karolyn Kisel)

 

 

The reviews are amazing and with a little investment in materials I think I might be up to doing it myself. Draping appeals as I love the way shapes come together in hats and want to see how I can apply that in sewing. I've done some projects without patterns but I love doing things properly.

So, chapter 1 and the preparation. I prepared my mannequin. It's pretty obvious straight away that Martha (an adjustoform) won't cut the mustard here. I can't pin directly into her and she has bits missing down the side and centre front and back. I'm already awaiting a new friend from Amazon. 

 

Fabric preparation all made sense. I can't say I did a great job of blocking the calico as the grain wasn't straight, but I'm sure I'll improve in time. You can see how wonky it is in this photo, although it hasn't come out all that well on my phone.

 

The first exercise is to drape a basic dance tunic. The instructions and videos were really clear. Here's the book's version and mine. I struggled a bit again with the gap in centre front as i had nothing to work against. I'm pleased with the outcome though. I enjoyed manipulating the fabric.

 

I'm going to work on this every Tuesday night and plan to update after each exercise. I'm keen to see how the draping is translated into a pattern for the finished garment. 

And now for something completely different

I've just been given permission to post pictures of this commission, which was an unusual one. A fluffy, over the top tuxedo complete with built-in waistcoat and bow tie. This was for a festival a few weeks ago.

Bar the fact that I HATE working with faux fur, this was so much fun to make. I used an existing jacket and trousers to draft the pattern. I elongated everything, added a long tail to the jacket and lined the tail with even more lairy fabric. I drafted a built in waistcoat (to limit bulk) in the same fabric.

Honestly, nothing but a picture will do credit to this one.



I certainly don't think there are many people out there who could pull this off, but this guy absolutely rocks it!